If, unlike this blog, you’re not stuck in the past, you may already have seen the final shot of the dresser all gussied up with hardware and a spiffy top. However, if, like this blog, you aren’t into short-form social media then you’ll have a to wait a few more posts. When we left off, I was finishing up the shaping of the top. Today we’ll talk about the final smoothing of the top. Hint: it took longer than I thought. Before even touching the surface I pulled out my secret weapon: a 38° blade for my Veritas jack plane.
[Mentally insert images of Wayne and Garth’s flashback phrases: diddly-oo-do-diddly-oo]
I naively bought this blade back in 2010 when I started my conversion from power tool junkie to hybrid novice.
At the time, I didn’t realize I could just put a secondary bevel on a 25° primary bevel. I thought I needed this blade for highly figured wood. I found this out, rather embarrassingly, when I asked a question to Chris Schwarz during a hand tool class. He let me know, politely, I didn’t need a special primary bevel. Nonetheless, the blade been an important part of my arsenal since then. It’s never failed me and always left a glass smooth finish.
[diddly-oo-do-diddly-oo-do-diddly-oo-do…back into the near present]
I sharpened up all my blades, including my trusty 38°, and set forth to smooth the top. At first I tackled the bottom hoping to get a mild cup out of the 2.5 year old glued up panel.
My jointer at work
Great results…so far
As I’d been reading a lot of Josh Klien’s M&T sermons at the time, I decided to forgo making the bottom look too pretty and flipped things over to smooth the top. Without taking any test passes on the show side, I went right after it with my jack plane and the 38° blade. Wispy shavings ensued.
Looking good, right?
But then the light hit the board just right and my heart inched toward my throat. Hubris. The pics below show the damage on the underside, which I took during troubleshooting. I couldn’t bring myself to photograph the show side, which looked similar.
More like plane gouges!
I tried to fix the problem; at first thinking it was plane tracks. I retracted the blade, and even took a file to the corners of the blade but nothing made a difference. Finally, I realized there were a few burrs on the plane bottom. I must’ve bumped it at some point and not noticed. I called it quits for the night and retreated to my library looking for a solution. Luckily, I’d just attended a Lie-Nielsen and picked up the updated Handplane Essentials book from PopWood. I found the answer to my problems in an article about plane tracks. I was pretty nervous but ended up taking a small file to my primo handplane. It worked like a champ.
Thanks for the article Chris
Identifying the culprit (sorry for the fuzzy image)
And another one
And a few more
With the burrs removed, I resharpened up my favorite blade, and went for a second attempt.
I used the scrapers to take out the deep gouges
Then I did the majority of the work with my deburred jack
Then I used my #4 to get into a few of the low spots the jack kept going over
With the top looking great, the next thing was to refine the end grain on the sides. I used my regular curve tools but I busted out my newest arrival: the Festool Pro 5 Ltd. It made short work of the the end grain. This was a great test and I’ll admit to loving this this little sander!
Regular curve tools
Enter the new kid
Perfect. And Easy.
Setting aside the lessons on hubris, I’ll end with its close cousin: carelessness. As I sanded the end grain, one of the domino holes opened up. In fairness, there was really no way I could’ve predicted this in 2014 when I glued up the top. Nonetheless, it was annoying. But , at this point, I didn’t panic. I just let it go and busted out the Timbermate.
After all this, I feel more equipped to tackle these kinda problems in the future. And most importantly, the top looks amazing.