Two years ago I tried my hand at online ordering of wood from Shannon over at Hardwood to Go. I got one of those Surprise Packs hoping to get some small pieces to make cutting boards at our community woodshop. What I received was a few boards for doing such along with an 8ft tall piece of mahogany measuring about 12″ in diameter. This was not going to become a cutting board.
I broke the boards down with Grandpa’s saw and figured out the best grain match. I threw in some dominoes and glued it up.
With the panel glued up, I turned my attention toward breadboard ends. I’ve always like the aesthetics of breadboard ends and on the previous toy chest I tackled this for the first time. You can read about it here. I used a technique from Marc over at The WoodWhisperer but after doing some digging, I found this video from Brian McCauley. I’m partial to doing this with the Domino because I think it’s easy and doesn’t take up much time. In revisiting some of the comments from both videos I noticed comments about wood movement issues. Now, both Brian and Marc were making large dining tables whereas I’m making a lid to a chest. I think size matters here but still, it got me thinking…
One of the complaints was even at the “sloppiest” setting for domino width, there is only 3mm of movement on each side. The claim is this isn’t enough space allotted for wood movement. I really don’t know the answer but I think I came up with a solution by “elongating” the mortises. The method is pretty easy: plunge in at the widest setting and then move toward the center. Don’t plunge and move at the same time. Instead plunge, recoil, move, and plunge again. The picture below shows the results. You’ll note a bit of discrepancy in the height of the holes but it must’ve been user error; I honestly don’t know how this happened but it didn’t affect the glue up or the results.
Next up was gluing them on, pinning the dominoes, and putting on some finish.
The last, and final step, is finishing the case.